Spring Break – April 2013

Having opted for shortish drives and a tad of exploration (hardly Henry the Navigator, but still!) our `down` overnighter was in a small town called Ferrera de Alentejo, inboard and a little south of Lisbon. Lovely experience.  Apart from being only a stones` throw from Beja  -a fabulous and picturesque tourist attraction hill-fort town at which we arrived comfortably before lunch- our Hotel in FdA itself was in the “Rua (Street) de Visconte de Ferreira de Alantejo” and turned out to be yer actual Viscount`s former `palace` - complete with fabulous décor.

Then on to the Algarve!

In our opinion -    Albufeira`s great

Granted, we were visiting not only at the beginning of the season, but -fortuitously or what?- just as summer arrived, breaking the longest season of cold and wet that we`ve ever experienced in Portugal.

In three short days, we had an excellent time. Staying in a supremely-situated Hotel in Oura; right from our in-bound stop at Tourist Information, everything just seemed to gel; highlights for we country folk including a splendid afternoon in the company of  first-time-met, but long-standing  email Blog companions Victoria and Jim, a chance to pick up (OK not duty-free, but …) products not readily available here, and the always somehow hitherto-missed-out-on visit to Sagres.

Notwithstanding that the draught Guinness (aaah, 2Euro-a-pint Draught Guinness) didn`t travel –several such pints having to be `picked partaken and (re)poured` all within a tight timeframe- we found the general buzz of the place exactly the tonic we, and presumably thousands of other holiday-makers throughout the average year, needed. Prices generally were v.good, but it was the availability of many commodities and brands long since unavailable to the point of being practically forgotten, that really added to the charm of the place. And due to our packed schedule, we didn`t even get to the beach!

Agreed, we probably wouldn`t want to live there, and we don`t doubt yobheads take a toll (Perhaps they`re just trying to cram a years relief into the only week or two they can manage to get away  ???) but as against that, residents anywhere can dip in and out of the bits of local life they don`t find attractive, whilst still being able enjoy the Full Monty as and when they DO so choose.

Finally, last night in LISBON

Staying in another fabulous, recently refurbished, town house in the unbelievable district of Alfama.

Tasca do Chico pub/club

One of the principal motivating factors/goals of our entire trip, in the event Geraldine and I simply chanced upon both this fantastic little Club/eatery and the Museu do Fado virtually opposite. `happened as we were meandering through the narrow cobbled Alfama streetlets on the way back to our hotel. We had already eaten (`nother story), had a beer (`nother `nother story!), and listened from the pavement to the live singers from `spectaculars` in and on premises we were simply not prepared to pay the up to 50 Euro+  per person entrance plus meal charge to enter.

Check it on the web; but do bear in mind that the visual quality of `telemobile videos` reduce somewhat when performances begin and the lights are dimmed. Howandever, somehow Joao Carlos himself caught our eye and ushered us inside for an unbelievable nights` entertainment. The place was cosy, warm and bunged; drinks on the more expensive side (as against which, no pressure to purchase at the bar at all) and no cover charge. People were still arriving and having freshly-grilled lingüiça (sausage) after 10pm., fairly constantly `refreshing` tables in a space holding only about 40 persons.

The singers, and especially the musicians, were excellent, and the whole experience was superb; the one sadness being that restrictive capacity limitation (although, if it was a bigger venue, the atmosphere would suffer).

What a way to end our short break; if you`re ever within reach, do try it; should you be in luck you`ll get IN, if you aim for the furthest/back wall in what was basically a converted garageway, you`ll probably not be hassled in any shape or form, and WE cant believe you`ll not also be VERY contented!

Oh, great joy; although it IS nice now to be back home!

M & G

Bit scary ...... ???

My wife and I have lived here since 2003 (we were essentially `medical evacuees` - Gawd Bless that heart attack!). In addition to many other countries and locations for our gettout, we also looked at the Algarve, where we had previously holidayed (but beyond our finances even at that time, a happenchance subsequently considered fortunate to say the least) but even a quick re-examination confirmed a decline there in the direction of all things too good not to be boasted about at this juncture.

Each to their own, of course, but WE also decided to emigrate, as opposed to setting up shop in some insular British enclave akin to the Costas.

We lived for five years in our originally selected -and pretty well idyllic- abode before moving a full 20 miles to effect `trade in` of our 2-storey rural property for a slightly more urban bungalow which we believed would ultimately be better suited to our advancing years. We remain within 30 miles of Leiria (from whence, incidentally, Chelsea had snatched a certain less-than-fully-formed `special one` prior to our arrival!). The following comments are therefore the result of personal experience and observation, and are reasonably parochial, albeit that the traditional Portuguese `localisation` is itself being rapidly snaffled up by at least the spirit of commercially driven globalisation.

In point of fact, the latter-day speed of advances has been truly astounding.

From there being ONE recognisable Mall (“Coimbra Shopping”, which seemed to service most of the Central Portugal Brit community then largely based 15 miles away at Lousa, and from where -on a good day- you just might have been able to buy one of those new-fangled sliced loaf things!), there are now new-build shopping centres galore, including not one, but two state-of-the-art examples in that very same Coimbra.
“Queenborough” itself, incidentally, is an ancient national capital, and still the University and Medical `centre` of Portugal. However, along with breads, cheeses, speciality meals and indigenopus wines, nearly every area here has it’s own `local` selection of supermarkets ranging from sizable Iberian chains to Lidl and Spar-type supermercados as augmentees of the long-standing Ronnie Barker open-all-hours variety of live-ins.

Pretty well all selling sliced bread too, these days, though not necessarily always quite as we would know it! 

Yes, recession IS a factor, but here (the Silver Coast district of Central Portugal), the locals’ can -& do- ride it well.

For we “emigrantes” (Portuguese for `non local-residents`, applying equally to US here and to THEIR OWN, subsequently ensconced anywhere else)- the bigger factor is likely to be exchange rates; but local residents are largely self-sufficient, of subsistence stock, and have never really depended on `outside` produce anyway. 

A distinctive gap exists between rural and urban communities. For instance, folk in the former are mostly without cars other than the odd motorbike or tractor, and with a dearth of public transport, they use the local markets; where -however regrettably- us lot would by-and-large go for the better variety and value perceived in town centres and shops. Municipal markets are frequent and produce is fresh, pretty well organic (certainly not irradiated), and retaining natural smells and tastes that WE sometimes have to re-call from our memories.

As for energy-efficiency……

Each of our houses was constructed towards the end of the 20th Century; and each is sound. Each, however, is single-brick wall construction (adequate, possibly even preferable in the summer heat) although the further North you get, such construction is often traditionally compensated for by having living area walls additionally `clad` with ceramic tiles on the outside - an arrangement now not practical since new-build Regs require, amongst other `green` credentials, double-shelling AND a layer of polystyrene filler. Depending on your age, incidentally, the true extent of your pioneering spirit, and your pluck; you may wish to -and without doubt in the country, you’ll be able to- go in for a bit of the `good life` but again, you won’t be doing that for financial reasons; there’s hardly a need – the two of us probably live, absolutely `all in`, on no more than £15000 a year - and I can’t remember the last time we had two back-to-back July or August days when we weren’t in the 30`s.

So lastly, fellow-Brits and others.

(& notwithstanding my earlier comment), some final observations.

Both when we moved here, and e few years ago when we re-located, we were given to understand that our respective `new` homes would not be “within ten miles of other English speakers”. In neither case was that strictly true, although the principle was sound. After about two years, we did discover ONE other (a Norwegian man, married to a Dublin girl & subsequently naturalised Irish – which was definitely not the worst thing that could have happened to him!) close to the village where we first lived (Casais de San Jorge); and here, in Lourical, our closest British neighbours now -following the departure of a family who had been renting in the town- are about five miles away - although we have recently been told that a growing number of Brits are based in and around towns of Coimbrao and Bijouca, a few miles down and on either side of the Leiria road.

At no time here have we EVER felt on our own, let alone isolated. Apart from having said neighbours, the locals have always by nature been friendly and helpful -yet somehow reserved- and they have survived by dint of their friends and neighbours. The spirit of community is strong, and crime barely exists.

On the language thing, do remember that in all probability a native, say above the age of about 50, won’t ever have attended secondary school – dictator Salazar’s regime didn’t end until the 1980`s. So although Portuguese is NOT an easy language to learn - and to-days school-leavers will have been taught English in school, but large numbers of them don’t take it all that seriously, and those who do tend to `move away` as early as possible - where there’s a will there’s a way; and there is and there is!

Last two words.  DO IT!

DAYS OUT/ - where to go if you`re based in Central Poprtugal

Well; let`s assume a start-point of Coimbra (“Queenborough”), see below, the academic and ancient Capital of Portugal and modern centre for a University with an incredibly strong medical tradition – a proximity and excellence of available health care which might have influenced your choice of location. If you do visit (preferably as an independent day-trip), be sure to visit the old centre of the city. First-time visitors might want to see the University quadrangle, the Student’s Union (bar!), the downtown shopping / pedestrian centre, and the Mondego river – bridges and barges. The former Royal Palace and grounds at Luso, a tad further North, are a favourite tourist destination.


After that, to the North you`re really into the bigger industrialised Cities typical of European topography. Porto, of course or more traditionally Oporto <”O porto”, two words, is straightforward Portuguese for “the port”, and that`s exactly what we`re talking about; not only, but ultimately for the shipping of Port!> Porto is the biggest, the bustliest and certainly the busiest. Well worth a visit.


But there`s also Aveiro -with its` centre-piece canals- Braga, Guimares, and many others such as Penafiel - in the latter case, featuring an Autumn `chestnuts and strong liquor` fair!


In the South of the region is the sizable metropolis of Leiria (“Lay-ree-ah”). A visit here will be rewarded by a large and vibrant town centre, a castle, yet another eye-catching soccer stadium, and a Shopping Centre, to name but a few attractions. As always, despite the bustle, the town is relaxed, clean and tidy AND has an historic and charming central Youth Hostel.


Alternatively there is also a castle, along with some very good restaurants (a question of timing your ETAs!) in Pombal. Very much a local market-town it doubles as a hub within the sizable district, so it has one of pretty well everything.

As before, futher `out` is a whole range of special-interest and historic towns - or seaside resorts if you care to transit the westerly hop to the Atlantic!
Consider Batalha, Fatima, Alcobaca, Caldas de Reinha, Peniche, Nazare, Obidos etc., etc. There will be something both new to you and spectacular.

East is inland, ultimately for the Spanish border. The further you head into the backbone of this Central region get ready for much less habitation, hills, even mountains, and trees, hectares and hectares of pine forest!

Amongst the interesting towns `off piste` are Penela, small but picturesque, and built around a rocky outcrop, topped out with a sight-salving castle -from the ramparts of which the panoramic views are both extensive and impressive. Adjoining buildings are now converted to council offices etc., and the town itself spreads out below.

The more direct route, though, East is through Condeixa (-a-Novo, often omitted), itself a fairly typical, fairly featureless, but definitely improving town about 25miles NorthEast of Lourical, just about as far South as the Romans ever moved here en masse and the reference point for the active excavation site of CONIMBRIGA, open to visitors and described in any decent guide book. Fascinating mosaics and the remains of a Governor’s Palace, but in truth worthy of and needing a sizeable investment of time to be appreciated.

Either way, further on lies Miranda do Corvo, a beautiful, tranquil market town, combining old-world charm with modern buildings and (apparent) efficiency, certainly in terms of facilities. The river transiting as a canal feature holds the smallish centre together. Close-by is Lousa an early Brit settling hole (and like Miranda, a dormitory town for Coimbra, 30Km away).

The drive between Lousa and Coimbra is itself one of the most magnificent of lazy valley drives in the area. A description would be meaningless, try it!

The main alternative route back from up country (Lousa) involves transitting the Serra de Lousa and visiting Figuera dos Vinhos and/or Castanha de Pera –where a sizable and Butlinesque river beach is the showpiece feature.

As mentioned, the West is dominated by the Atlantic and an assortment of fishing and summer-seaside beaches and variously-sized resorts. We should include Figuera de Foz in this section. Commonly known simply as “Foz”, this is the locals` equivalent of Blackpool. As with practically the entire coastline, Foz features a marvellously long and wide beach, and for the month of August positively heaves with humanity, mostly though not exclusively Portuguese. Throughout the rest of the year - same facilities, but largely devoid of people, bar weekends in the better weather.

Once again, the basic attraction after the beach and beach facilities would normally be the second-to-none (locally) selection of shops & goods, beginning with the Municipal Market: close beside which a visitor could hardly fail to be impressed the `Sporting` Club Restaurant, the marina, space, the beach, and the main road bridge towering over the Mondego river. Prevailing Westerly winds, yes, but with five or six miles of strand, pretty well deserted except for as above, who cares? The explanation to the riddle is presumably that, at 100-odd miles from either Porto or Lisbon airports, Foz is only really on the tourist trail for Portuguese – and it has to compete with numerous smaller, but equally spacious developed seashores on either side.

Being anywhere close to Foz makes it eminently sensible to divert via Montemor(-o-Velho) – raising the term `castle` to a whole new level. A Zoo, and an Olympic rowing course are also in the vicinity! In point of fact, regardless of whether the rivers themselves still exist, a major feature of the locality is the preponderance of wide valley and river (flood) plains – presumably because of the nature of the soil and the regular torrents of rain-tides, but upon which considerable quantities of rice are produced!

take your Visitors

Amongst some of the great attractions in the area, you might want to let your visiting friends and relatives see:-


Montemor Castle, Church and grounds.

Rising up from a flood plain, between Figuiera da Foz and Coimbra, must be one of the most intact castles around, anywhere. Uncluttered, yet with masses of Jacarandi, open walkways, a Cafe and panoramic views in all directions.


Fatima church and Shrine.

Reputedly Roman Catholocism`s second largest and most important attraction after Lourdes.




other favourites, anyone?