Spring Break – April 2013
Having opted for shortish drives and a tad of exploration (hardly Henry the Navigator, but still!)
our `down` overnighter was in a small town called Ferrera de Alentejo, inboard and a little south of Lisbon. Lovely
experience. Apart from being only a
stones` throw from Beja -a fabulous and picturesque tourist
attraction hill-fort town at which we arrived comfortably before lunch- our
Hotel in FdA itself was in the “Rua
(Street) de Visconte de Ferreira de Alantejo” and turned out to be yer
actual Viscount`s former `palace` - complete with fabulous décor.
Then on to the Algarve!
In
our opinion - Albufeira`s
great
Granted, we
were visiting not only at the beginning of the season, but -fortuitously or what?- just as summer
arrived, breaking the longest season of cold and wet that we`ve ever
experienced in Portugal.
In three
short days, we had an excellent time. Staying in a supremely-situated Hotel in Oura;
right from our in-bound stop at Tourist Information, everything just seemed to
gel; highlights for we country folk including a splendid afternoon in the
company of first-time-met, but
long-standing email Blog companions
Victoria and Jim, a chance to pick up (OK
not duty-free, but …) products not readily available here, and the always
somehow hitherto-missed-out-on visit
to Sagres.
Notwithstanding
that the draught Guinness (aaah,
2Euro-a-pint Draught Guinness) didn`t travel –several such pints having to be `picked partaken and (re)poured` all
within a tight timeframe- we found the general buzz of the place exactly
the tonic we, and presumably thousands of other holiday-makers throughout the
average year, needed. Prices generally were v.good, but it was the availability
of many commodities and brands long since unavailable to the point of being
practically forgotten, that really added to the charm of the place. And due to
our packed schedule, we didn`t even get to the beach!
Agreed, we
probably wouldn`t want to live there, and we don`t doubt yobheads take a toll (Perhaps they`re just trying to cram a years
relief into the only week or two they can manage to get away ???) but as against that, residents anywhere can dip in and out of the bits of local life they don`t find
attractive, whilst still being able enjoy the Full Monty as and when they DO so
choose.
Finally, last night in LISBON
Staying
in another fabulous, recently refurbished, town house in the unbelievable
district of Alfama.
Tasca do Chico pub/club
One
of the principal motivating factors/goals of our entire trip, in the event
Geraldine and I simply chanced upon both this fantastic little Club/eatery and
the Museu do Fado virtually opposite. `happened as we were meandering through
the narrow cobbled Alfama streetlets on the way back to our hotel. We had
already eaten (`nother story), had a beer (`nother `nother story!), and listened from the pavement to the
live singers from `spectaculars` in and on premises we were simply not prepared
to pay the up to 50 Euro+ per person entrance plus meal charge to enter.
Check
it on the web; but do bear in mind that the visual quality of `telemobile videos` reduce somewhat when
performances begin and the lights are dimmed. Howandever, somehow Joao Carlos
himself caught our eye and ushered us inside for an unbelievable nights`
entertainment. The place was cosy, warm and bunged; drinks on the more
expensive side (as against which, no pressure to purchase at the bar at all)
and no cover charge. People were still arriving and having freshly-grilled
lingüiça (sausage) after 10pm., fairly constantly `refreshing` tables in a
space holding only about 40 persons.
The
singers, and especially the musicians, were excellent, and the whole experience
was superb; the one sadness being that restrictive capacity limitation (although,
if it was a bigger venue, the
atmosphere would suffer).
What
a way to end our short break; if you`re ever within reach, do try it; should
you be in luck you`ll get IN, if you aim for the furthest/back wall in what was
basically a converted garageway, you`ll probably not be hassled in any shape or
form, and WE cant believe you`ll not also be VERY contented!
Oh, great
joy; although it IS nice now to be back home!
M & G
Just been on an overnighter to Santiago de Compostela - and a very interesting time, too.
ReplyDeleteWe were there on the Sunday afternoon, and OK it was early season -even though the continuing cold seems to belie the fact that it IS almost June!- but there weren`t really very many people about. The attractions lived up to expectation, pervading Galician Celtic music was excellent, general touristy `tat` not overly expensive, meal billboards on the quaint little narrow paved streets seemed to range from diarias at less than ten Euro to `plates` (? for two) with little change from a fifty! (Thankfully, full board at a hotel was included in the price of our trip; and EVERY meal there or on trips included unlimited quantities of rather pleasant lightish <10> and fruity local wine). Didn`t have time for a pub visit, but managed to pick up a couple of bottles of what looks to be the local favourite of variously flavoured cream liqueurs.
Monday took us (after a sales presentation - boring, but clearly subsidised the cost!) to a little place called `the Grove` and a glass-bottomed boat trip out to see the innards of a moored mussel-growing platform; of which there were literally hundreds in the bays and inlets around the area (`think that was Rio Arouce; but shouldn`t be hard to find on a map. Fairly close to Vigo).
Bit of excitement as we had an unplanned coach exchange (broken gearbox/clutch) in Ponte de Lima, just inside Portugal on the way back. Had coffee whilst looking across at the bridge itself, that some may recall being featured on an edition of `Place in the Sun` a few years ago. The whole area looked delightful, as we again had the brilliant coincidence of near enough perfect weather. Plus, our mostly Portuguese traveling companions were their usual friendly, talkative and humorous selves!
Oh, we DID like to be -mostly- beside the sea-side.
Now back to reality; advised this morning by Dutch friends that some forecast they check is talking a long-dragged-out continuation of changeable weather. Oough.
.......... went to TOMAR last week, and would heartily recommend it to anybody remotely interested seeing a living testimony.
ReplyDeleteAs befits an important historical centre, there are sights galore as well as a modern bright river-straddling heart, although notwithstanding the readily available tourist information, we found a little advance reading to be a well-rewarded preparatory step. Others have since told us about a selection of equally quaint, not outrageously expensive Hotels in the vicinity. Plus WE also had the good fortune to meet and enjoy a couple of beers, a chat, and an exchange of Knightly legends with a North East UK couple having a break from their Algarve home.
A few empty and `Liquidacao` shops, yes; but the town itself was bustling, spotlessly clean and tidy and offered a considerable choice of cafes and Restaurants (with a range of appropriate prices; after a little bit of price comparison, we managed to find what turned out to be a French-run eatery, and had a Portuguese meal, served personally by the Portuguese kitchen Chef-lady; and all, including half a litre of wine between us for change from 14 Euro for the two!).
The main square is overlooked by the Palace of the Order of Christ (formerly the Portuguese section of the Knights Templar), and I can only say, having visited a fair selection of castles etc around this and other regions, that this really did emphasise the differences -in scope layout and scale- between the two types of building.
Doubt I have ever spent so much time literally enjoying surprise after surprise at the numbers, the variety (of purpose(s)) and the decoration of so many rooms. And I`m sure I counted at least eight separate courtyards, all tucked away until you had actually stepped inside!
(PS - a 6Euro entrance fee; `bargain for a busy two or more leisurely three hours of constant delights).